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Shirt weaves explained

We use a variety of weaves in our shirt range to deliver both comfort and style. Weaves typically fall into three categories: plain, twill and satin. We at GANT tend to use mainly plain weaves. When it comes to weaves, we refer to the way in which the cotton threads are put together to create a fabric. This is known as the warp and the weft. The warp is the set of lengthwise yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom, while the weft refers to the yarns that are inserted over-and-under the warp threads during the weaving process. Whichever weave we use, different techniques create a noticeable impact on a shirt’s overall style and finish. The most basic of all weaves, a plain weave is used for its strength and durability. Here, the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple crisscross pattern.

Plain Weaves

The most basic of all weaves, a plain weave is used for its strength and durability. Here, the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple crisscross pattern.

Oxford Weave

Oxford Weave

Originally developed for sportswear, oxford is soft and doesn’t wrinkle easily thanks to its plain weave or basket weave technique that combines two yarns woven (lengthwise), against a heavier yarn (crosswise).

Pinpoint Oxford Weave

Pinpoint Oxford Weave

This weave is a mixture between a sturdy oxford and lightweight broadcloth weave. Depending on the treatment, this fabric usually lends a more formal appearance to the wearer.

Chambray Weave

Chambray Weave

Made with heavier yarns for a laidback feel that’s ideal for sportswear, this plain weave fabric has a similar construction to broadcloth yet often features white threads running in the weft, giving it an uneven appearance.

Poplin / Broadcloth Weave

Poplin / Broadcloth Weave

Thanks to its lightweight texture, you’ll notice we use this weave in both our dressier and more casual GANT shirt assortment.

Fil-a'-fil (End-on-End) Weave

Fil-a'-fil (End-on-End) Weave

Closely woven by alternating lighter and darker colored warp and weft threads, the result is a fabric that from a distance, appears plain-colored but up close, features distinct contrast coloring.

Other Weaves and Yarns

Here, we outline some of the other weaving techniques you'll find in our shirts. Sometimes, yarns are mixed, techniques are adapted and patterns are introduced into fabrics to create something completely new.

Jacquard Weave

Jacquard Weave

Here, yarns are woven into unlimited designs with an often intricate and multicolored effect. Look closely and you’ll often see combinations of weaves.

Dobby Weave

Dobby Weave

This decorative weave results in small designs or geometric figures all over the woven fabric. Achieved by using a dobby machine, this weave uses various yarns from very fine to coarse and fluffy yarns to produce a variety of fabrics.

Mélange Weave

Mélange Weave

Taking its name from the French word for “mixture”, mélange fabrics come in every sort of weave, and are woven using multi-colored dyed yarns.